About Bleach By Barbara Bird
ABOUT BLEACH
By Barbara Bird April 2025
Common household bleach is familiar to most everybody and trusted as a disinfectant.
It is effective against bacteria, yeast and mold and used in many pet care establishments as a safe option for disinfecting floors and surfaces. However, there are some things to know about bleach that might give you second thoughts about using it. Or at least teaching your salon staff some protocols for bleach use.
▪ Chemical Facts: Bleach is chlorine-based such as calcium hypochlorite (bleaching powder) and non chlorine (peroxidase-based).The active ingredient of chlorine bleach is chlorine hypochlorite.
▪ How is Bleach made? Sodium hypochlorite solutions are produced by percolating chlorine gas in controlled amounts through a solution of sodium hydroxide in water. When the reaction is completed, there is a 1% to 2% excess of sodium hydroxide present in the solution. The chlorine gas reacts with sodium hydroxide to yield sodium hypochlorite.
▪ Chlorine bleach is considered a Hazardous Substance. It has serious health effects.
▪ Chlorine bleach is considered a Hazardous Substance. It has serious health effects.
▪ From SDS:
Hazards Identification
This chemical is considered hazardous by the 2012 OSHA Hazard Communication Standard (29 CFR 1910.1200). Danger. Causes severe skin burns and eye damage Causes serious eye damage.
Potential Health Effects
Eye Contact: Corrosive. May cause severe damage to eyes.
Skin Contact: May cause severe irritation to skin. Prolonged contact may cause burns to skin. Inhalation: Exposure to vapor or mist may irritate respiratory tract and cause coughing. Inhalation of high concentrations may cause pulmonary edema. Ingestion: Ingestion may cause burns to
gastrointestinal tract and respiratory tract, nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea.
▪ Long-term (chronic) effects: Long-term exposure to low levels of chlorine gas could cause permanent lung disease such as bronchitis and shortness of breath. It can also cause tooth corrosion. Long-term exposure is mostly found in the workplace. No cancer or reproductive effects have been reported from chronic exposure to chlorine.
▪ EWWW The Smell: Some people are highly sensitive to the strong odor of bleach and report nausea, tingling or burning of mouth and headaches.
▪ EWWW The Smell: Some people are highly sensitive to the strong odor of bleach and report nausea, tingling or burning of mouth and headaches. ▪ Bleach is more effective at killing germs
when diluted than when used straight out of the bottle.
▪ Bleach Dilution : Nearly every reference offered a different recommendation. They included: 1 Cup Bleach:1 gallon water; 9 parts water:1 part bleach; 1/3 cup bleach per gallon water, and 1/2 cup bleach in 1 gallon water. Take your pick. Given what we have learned about the loss of potency, I would suggest you use more bleach as your bleach ages in the bottle.
▪ Is your bleach fresh? Bleach is unstable. It begins to degrade soon after it is produced. This makes it less potent. The higher the temperature in storage, the faster it will degrade. Yes, bleach can be losing
potency while in the bottle at the supermarket or stored in your garage or under the sink. The decomposition rate is exponential, not linear, so a significant amount of the decomposition occurs in the first week after production. Sodium Hypochlorite solutions containing less than 7.5% available chlorine are the most stable.
▪ The factors that promote bleach decomposition are heat, light, soil, and metal ions (hard water).
▪ Bleach by itself does not remove dirt or soil (or urine & feces). An area that will be cleaned with bleach should be washed and rinsed first to remove any dirt or nasty stuff before using the bleach solution.
▪ Household Bleach: Bleach designed for use in the home is sold in retail and grocery stores. It is typically labeled somewhere in the range of 4-8% Sodium Hypochlorite, and is the only type of bleach appropriate for the average consumer to use at home. Due to the longer time (weeks? months?) from production to use by the customer, it is highly possible that bleach purchased in grocery stores is not necessarily as strong as is claimed on the label (see next section on bleach degradation). This is why we don’t buy bleach at the Dollar Store.
▪ Bleach is highly corrosive. "Bleach can drill a hole through stainless steel," says one expert, "that's why it's important to wipe down metal surfaces with water or ethanol after treating them with bleach." For
delicate metal instruments, consider avoiding bleach altogether and using a different kind of disinfectant, such as ethanol (alcohol).
▪ Medicated Shampoo with Bleach - Sodium Hypochlorite has been demonstrated as effective in treating antibiotic resistant skin infections in dogs. Vets have been known to prescribe weekly bleach rinses for dogs that have not been responsive to other treatments. It works. Now a medicated shampoo with sodium chlorite as an ingredient is available
▪ Medicated Shampoo with Bleach - Sodium Hypochlorite has been demonstrated as effective in treating antibiotic resistant skin infections in dogs. Vets have been known to prescribe weekly bleach rinses for dogs that have not been responsive to other treatments. It works. Now a medicated shampoo with sodium chlorite as an ingredient is available Vetrimax. It uses a combination of sodium
hypochlorite and salicylic acid. We are sorry to see this available by internet search at Chewy.com, as requiring veterinary supervision would seem appropriate.
P.S. FABULOSO CLEANING PRODUCTS CONTAIN NO BLEACH. Just
Saying….The alarming story about a person dying from using Fabuloso was totally false. You can’t get much more false than “totally”.
REFERENCES:
Core Chem: Cleaning with Bleach: Here’s What You Need to Know, info@corechem.com
Michigan Department of Community Health, Bleach Fact Sheet, michigan.gov
Mika Ono, Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Bleach But Were Afraid to Ask, Scripps Research Institute News & Views, Vol 6, Issue 5, February 13, 2006
Household Products Database. Now known as: consumer product information database
Valerie A. Fadok, Katherine Irwin, Sodium Hypochlorite/salicylic Acid Shampoo for Treatment of Canine Staphylococcal Pyoderma, J Am Anim Hosp Assoc. 2019 May/Jun, 55(3): 117-123. d
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30870602/
DMDM HYDANTOIN - FACTS & FEARS
Facts about DMDM Hydantoin
USAGE: BROAD SPECTRUM PRESERVATIVE (Alternative to Parabens)
PRESERVATIVE TYPE: FORMALDEHYDE DONOR (along with quaternium-15, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (bromopol)
· DMDM Hydantoin is used in cosmetic products at concentrations up to 1%. 1 Most commonly it is used at concentrations of 0.2-0.6%. That’s 2/10ths to 6/10ths of one percent.
· DMDM Hydantoin releases less formaldehyde than found in foods.2
· Formaldehyde that is released in water-based solutions, such as shampoos, will immediately mix with water in the product and instantly convert into methylene glycol, so there’s virtually no chance of inhaling harmful levels of formaldehyde gas.2
· The safety of DMDM Hydantoin has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that DMDM Hydantoin was safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the present practices of use. In 2005, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on DMDM Hydantoin and reaffirmed the above conclusion. It is approved universally in Japan, USA and Europe.1
· DMDM Hydantoin has low oral toxicity and is not carcinogenic.
· It has shown occasional dermal irritation but does not appear to be a sensitizer (does not cause allergic response) in animal testing1. In human dermatological studies it has shown up as a sensitizer, especially in those individuals with known allergy to formaldehyde. 3
BBIRD TRANSLATION:
The concerns over the safety of DMDM Hydantoin and other preservatives that are formaldehyde releasers seems mostly based on the fear of formaldehyde. It’s scary stuff! Full strength Formaldehyde gas is extremely toxic and is a known carcinogen. Our fears of formaldehyde gas have been exploited by profit-minded fear mongers and made to appear relevant to cosmetics.
Formaldehyde occurs naturally in many foods, especially fruits & vegetables.The amount of formaldehyde released in cosmetics preservatives is less than that found naturally occurring in foods. Moreover, some scientists claim that any formaldehyde that is released in a solution containing water is immediately converted to another substance, methylene glycol. They maintain that actually NO FORMALDEHYDE can exist in shampoos and conditioners. Concern over DMDM Hydantoin would be most appropriate in regards to creams (oil-based), not hair products (water-based, rinsed off).
DMDM Hydantoin has a very low oral toxicity, making it quite safe for cats. It does not cause cancer. It has been determined to be a sensitizer for some humans (causes allergic reaction), but this was not established in animal studies. In studies of albino rabbits, it showed minimal transient irritation. 5
CONCLUSION: DMDM Hydantoin has been thoroughly studied, reviewed and re-reviewed by the CIR Expert Panel, and determined to be safe as used in cosmetics. It is considered an acceptable alternative to parabens, with a slightly greater potential for skin irritation or allergic reaction. This would not likely exhibit in a diluted, rinse-off, water-based shampoo for pets.
2021 UPDATE: A newer and excellent reference for the safety of this preservative is found at
Reviewed and re-posted by BBird, April 18,2025
Reviewed and Re-Posted by BBird, 4/18/2025. Yes, I approve this message.
Close-Open-Close: Is it a good thing?
Background:
Many practices and products arrive at the pet grooming industry by way of the human beauty industry. The whole idea of conditioners came to us from hairdressing art. Prior to the late 1970’s most pet groomers, even the top echelon of grooming icons had never considered using conditioners on pet hair. Likewise, some grooming practices originated in the beauty industry. There are several types of pre-shampoo treatments that have trickled down from the human hair care industry. Hot Oil Treatment was one, and many Asian groomers can be seen in videos using a pre-bath mineral soak.
Consider the practice called “Close-Open-Close.” Close-Open-Close originated in the human hair care industry as a practice that accompanied permanent hair coloring in order to achieve a more uniform and thorough color result as well as protecting the client’s hair from damage from the very alkaline and caustic hair dye products. Most often the products used before the hair dyeing were protein-rich conditioners. The name “Close-Open-Close” was chosen because it was easy for hairstylists to remember. Close-Open-Close relates to the cuticle layer of the hair shaft. Step One was to smooth or “close” the hair cuticle before dyeing and to fill in any uneven patches or damage on the cuticle surface. Step Two was to lift the cuticle edges so that the color could be deposited into the inner cortex of the hair shafts to become permanent. This was achieved by formulating the coloring products to be extremely alkaline in pH (ie, 9.0 pH) which actually pulls and lifts the cuticle scales. Step Three was to use an acidic conditioner to tighten the cuticle scales and again create a smooth surface.
Adapting this protocol to pet grooming it translates into “Condition-Shampoo-Condition”. This process was adapted by IV San Bernard and called “Close-Open-Close”. It has been adopted by many groomers who have found it helpful in their grooming.
Science says:
That’s the background. Here are some facts to consider:
• The hair cuticle does not actually OPEN. It lifts or becomes slightly raised or lifted.
• Opening or lifting of the hair cuticle is not a good thing. It is not designed to be forcibly lifted. It does not open and close like a door.
• The cuticle layers are held in place by lipids and proteins. Repeated lifting by chemical or mechanical means erodes the “mortar” that holds the structure together.*
• When we shampoo hair, the water breaks the hydrogen bonds and swells the hair shafts. This slightly raises the hair cuticle.
• Also contributing to lifting of the cuticle are the anionic surfactants in the shampoo. Hair naturally carries a negative charge. When the negatively charged anionic cleansers meet the negatively charged hair, it can pull on the surface causing lifting. This is all the more reason to use a well-balanced shampoo that has been mindfully formulated.
• Most current-day products are formulated to a slightly acidic pH, 5.5-6.5, pretty much the same range as human shampoos.
• High pH products, such as hard soaps, hair dye, and aggressive degreasers can also cause excessive lifting of the cuticle and erode the cuticle "mortar". These are the products that most benefit “Close-Open-Close.”
• A lifted hair cuticle does not necessarily allow beneficial ingredients to penetrate into the cortex or body of the hair shaft.
• Penetration of ingredients is determined more by the chemistry and molecular size of the ingredients. We do not just open the door and put good stuff inside the hair shaft.
• Also, the most recent hair science suggests that penetration of substances into the cortex of the hair does not happen through the cuticle, but through the mortar that holds the cuticle layers in place.
•
Discussion
Okay. So here's my take-away from my reading on this subject: It seems to me that the issue is the lifting of the hair cuticle that causes damage not the smoothing. Not all shampoos are potentially damaging. A shampoo is much more than a single surfactant, or single cleansing agent. In a well-formulated product, the secondary, co-surfactants (foam builders, emulsifiers, thickeners) team up with the primary detergent(s) to form a complex matrix that is the shampoo. One important effect of the co-surfactants is to reduce the irritancy of the primary cleanser, e.g., a sulfate. We still have a powerful cleanser, but it is more friendly to hair and skin. Another formulation practice that makes for less lifting of the hair cuticle is the use of cationic polymer conditioners in the shampoo. Polyquats, such as Polyquaternium 10 and Polyquaternium 44, play well with anionic surfactants and neutralize the negative charge of the detergent(s) and smooth the hair cuticle during the shampoo process. Polyquaternium 10 is ubiquitous in human hair shampoos (it's everywhere) and we are seeing more and more in pet shampoos. Truth is…shampooing can be a smoothing process not necessarily lifting or opening the hair cuticle. What isn’t opened does not need to be closed.
When to Condition Before Shampoo
While I don't believe that all professional pet groomers should condition before every bath, there are some situations where this protocol can be helpful.
Badly damaged coat that is not to be clipped. An example is the 10-year old Bearded Collie in full coat that we groom every 2 weeks that has accumulated considerable damage throughout the coat from constant de-matting. She is always very dirty because her owner doesn't care and lets her wander into any dirt or undergrowth that she wants to. Conditioning before the shampoo with a product with plenty of hydrolyzed protein such as Chris Christensen Thick n' Thicker Foaming Protein is a way to imitate COC.
Funky old dog skin. I have been amazed at how a protein treatment will bring the skin of old dogs to a healthier appearance. I am not talking about treating a skin disease, with broken skin.
Fine, non-porous coat. In this case you might want to simply condition before the bath and not after. Less porous hair and fine non-porous hair do not absorb conditioning ingredients in the same thirsty way as do porous and/or damaged hair.
Deshedding ultra thick double or triple coats. These challenging jobs can be made easier by relaxing the coat with application of a good anti-static conditioner before the shampoo, especially if you do not use a recirculating system.
Is "Closed-Open-Closed" a Good Thing?
Groomers have been doing pre-bath treatments for years. COC is another option in your toolbox. One can choose to treat the hair and skin with an oil, a mineral soak, a protein treatment or a cationic conditioner. Some groomers like to simply reverse the traditional order and condition before the bathe and that's it. Reverse conditioning has its place, especially with non-porous hair or when you do not want to soften the coat. Conditioning before the bathe as well as after gives us a means to protect skin and coat from the aggressiveness of the shampoo.
However, not all shampoos are damaging. Let me say that again, please: not all shampoos are damaging. Almost all our contemporary shampoos contain co-surfactants that function as foaming and thickening agents and significantly reduce the harshness of the primary detergents. Many modern shampoos also contain a cationic surfactant, such as Polyquaternium 10. And there are some shampoos, such as iGroom Charcoal+Keratin, that contain hydrolyzed protein along with a mild surfactant, and are much less likely to cause damage to hair than traditional shampoos.
What I don't like about Closed-Open-Closed is that the concept oversimplifies the biology of the hair cuticle. The cuticle scales that protect the hairshaft cannot be repeatedly open and closed like a cupboard door. What the pre-bath treatment often does is to prevent the lifting of the cuticle scales during the shampoo or cleansing process and protects the intercellular cement from degradation.The desirable process is one that minimizes the lifting of the hair cuticle.
REFERENCES:
C.R. Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, 329 DOI 10.1007/978-3-642-25611-0_6, # Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2012
Chapter Six, Interactions of Shampoo and Conditioner Ingredients with Hair.
http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2013/03/junk-science-opening-hairs-cuticle-for.html (this link has been removed)
Posted 7th August 2019 by bbird Revised March 16, 2025
"Shampoos and hair conditioners have generally been perceived as products that do not damage hair. However, there is increasing evidence that these products, particularly shampoos can contribute to hair damage through abrasive, erosive actions combined with cyclic actions involving bending, compression and extension, both during and after the shampoo process. These actions produce degradation of both the keratin and the important non-keratin components of the hair surface, the cell membrane complex and the cuticle layers." Robbins. pg 330
Groomer Longevity By Barbara Bird
GROOMER LONGEVITY – By Barbara Bird
As Presented to ATLANTA PET FAIR 2016
UNDERSTANDING STRESS
Understanding our relationship to stress is important to groomer survival. It is helpful to be able to identify your own signs of stress. What signals do you get at work that let you know you are in a stress mode? Here are some symptoms of stress that have been identified by mental health professionals.
HOW STRESS SHOWS UP - SIGNS OF STRESS
Cognitive Signs: Memory problems, indecisiveness, Inability to concentrate, trouble thinking clearly, poor judgment, seeing only the negative, anxious or racing thoughts, constant worrying, loss of objectivity, fearful anticipation.
Emotional Symptoms: Moodiness, agitation, restlessness, short temper, irritability, impatience, inability to relax, feeling overwhelmed, sense of loneliness or isolation, depression or unhappiness.
Physical Symptoms: Headaches or backaches, muscle tension and stiffness, diarrhea or constipation, nausea, dizziness, insomnia, chest pain or rapid heartbeat, weight gain or loss, skin breakouts, loss of sex drive, frequent colds.
Behavioral Symptoms: Eating more or less, sleeping too much or too little, isolating yourself from others, procrastination, neglecting responsibilities, using alcohol, cigarettes, or drugs to relax, nervous habits (e.g., nail biting), teeth grinding or jaw clenching, overdoing activities (exercising, shopping, hobbies), overreacting to unexpected problems, picking fights with others.
IDENTIFYING YOUR STRESSORS
The pressures and demands that cause stress are known as stressors. One person’s stressors may not be all that bad for another. What is stressful depends on many factors, including personality, general outlook on life, problem-solving ability, and available support systems. What are the stressors in your work situation? Identifying your stressors and your signs of stress are key elements in stress management. Stress management is critical to career longevity as a pet groomer.
External Stressors – Pet groomers share some common causes of stress. Difficult pets, clients with unrealistic expectations, being overbooked, all can push a groomer to the edge. A disorganized workplace, poorly performing equipment, unreasonable employers, coworkers who don’t pull their share of the load or who themselves are acting out their stress, are factors which can create stress. Constant loud noise of high velocity dryers and barking dogs is a significant stress factor for groomers.
Internal Causes of Stress –Not all stress is caused by external pressures and demands. Your stress can also be self-generated. Internal causes of stress include: Uncertainty or worries, pessimistic attitude, self-criticism, unrealistic expectations or beliefs, perfectionism, low self-esteem, unexpressed anger, lack of assertiveness.
Effects of chronic stress – The human being is designed to withstand short bursts of acute stress. Prolonged stress or “chronic stress” that doesn’t let up can challenge even a well-adjusted person’s ability to adapt. When sustained or severe stress overwhelms our coping resources, serious mental and physical health problems can result.
Emotional effects - Chronic stress grinds away at your mental health, causing emotional damage in addition to physical ailments. Long-term stress can even rewire the brain, leaving you more vulnerable to everyday pressures and less able to cope. Over time, stress can lead to mental health problems such as: anxiety, depression, eating disorders, and substance abuse.
Health effects - Recent research suggests that anywhere from 60 to 90 percent of illness is stress-related. The physical wear and tear of stress includes damage to the cardiovascular system and immune system suppression. Stress compromises your ability to fight off disease and infection, throws your digestive system off balance, makes it difficult to conceive a baby, and can even stunt growth in children. Hypothyroidism, adrenal problems, chronic fatigue and other hormonal imbalances are common to pet groomers and are related to chronic stress. Stress can also result in high blood pressure, diabetes, heart disease and stroke. Chronic stress is not something that should be accepted as “part of the job”; it should be prevented or dealt with.
TIPS FOR STRESS MANAGEMENT - Don’t be a passive victim of your stressors. Actively planning for stress and its management makes the effects of your stressors less powerful.
· Practice Deep Breathing – Stop for a minute and take several deep, full breaths. Deep breathing can actually reduce the physical impact of stress.
· Aromatherapy works – Diffusion of essential oils is a well-established way to help with stress management. Try a Lemon, Lavender and Tea Tree blend. Lime, Vetiver and Bergamot is very calming.
· The Five Minute Vacation – When you have time, spend a few minutes imagining in detail a vacation retreat spot. Visualize the surroundings, whether it be mountain or beach, and find the sights, sounds and smells that might be there. When you notice yourself losing to your stress response, you can visit your vacation spot for five minutes and get some relief. Don’t just hide out in the bathroom, take a vacation!
· Don’t Be a Lone Soldier – Working in a vacuum without friends or support can lead to alienation and depression. Get a groomer buddy and join a support group.
· Music therapy (note: it only works if YOU like the music.)
· Take a Spiritual Bath –Did a difficult customer or a coworker give you grief? “Wash away” your stress by an imaginary cleansing of your aura, and swoosh off the negative energy into a sink basin or your tub. If this is too far out for you, just splashing the face with cool water can help. The Qi Gong exercise called, “Large Bear Swimming” is another way to get rid of bad energy and cleanse the spirit.
· Manage Your Mind – Work on your internal stressors to minimize their impact. Create positive thoughts to substitute for negative or pessimistic “tapes” that run you; practice self-praise to replace self-criticism; control perfectionism; honor yourself; practice being assertive with clients.
· Develop a personal stretching/tension release exercise program - Find stretches and energy exercises that address your particular needs and help you actively undo the tensions in your body from your work. It’s best to release this tension before you sleep – you will rest better and have better recovery.
· Attend Trade Shows & Seminars – Take home equipment, tools, techniques or ideas that will make a positive impact on the stress you experience at work. Have a plan on how you will implement change. Remember that change, even positive, can be stressful. How can you engage others around you to deal with the stress that your change might involve?
By BBird, as presented at Atlanta Pet Fair 2016
©Birdzeye Press, BBird, 2012. All copyrights apply. For permission, email author at bbirdgroomer@gmail.com
Shniff Facial Fluff ingredient review
Shniff Facial Fluff Ingredient Review
INCI Ingredients: water, glycerin, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sorbitol, sodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, fragrance, sodium chloride, phenoxyethanol, tetrasodium EDTA, dehydroacetic acid, benzyl alcohol. mica for color. (from recent label).
Breakdown: Sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauryl sulfosuccinate are ultra mild cleansing agents. Glycerin and sorbitol are humectant moisturizers. Glycerin is Old School, Sorbital is New School. Sodium chloride is salt and works to thicken. All the rest are preservatives. Mica is a solid form of colorant that can be sprinkled over the top of the whipped product. This facial cleanser is whipped or “frothed” to make it foamy and easy to apply. Foaming is a form of dilution. It dilutes with air and makes the cleanser easy to apply, spread, and control the location.
Highlight: SORBITOL: The real hero of this popular product. Sorbitol has been around for a long time, but only in the last 5+ years has it become popular as a moisturizing ingredient. In fact, the popularity of this ingredient with formulators has surged dramatically. Technically sorbitol is a sugar alcohol which acts as a “humectant” or moisturizer that draws moisture to itself and holds it in place for a long time. This makes it good on the skin or hair as well as great inside the bottle or jar. It holds moisture to the skin or hair and holds it in place in the product as well. Also, sorbitol is sweet and it smells good. It is used in perfumery and cosmetics as a fragrance enhancer. One more thing: sorbitol is known as a “sensory modifier”. In plain English that means it is silky and soft in the user’s hands.
Summary: Shniff Facial Fluff is an effective facial cleanser that has been formulated to be stimulating to the senses of the user. The beauty industry has caught up to the pet grooming industry with this product. When you first open the jar it looks delightful. The surface of the fluffy foam looks like a flower in bloom, or soft waves of color on the beach. The mica color is sprinkled on the outer surface of the whipped cream product. The fragrances are bright and bursting with notes of spirit and depth. Also, the facial fluff comes in a fragrance-free option so you can enjoy the Shniff experience on sensitive skin.
Lavender Allergy - It's a thing
Originally posted 11/17/22 Revised 3/10/25
This is a heads-up post to alert pet groomers, pet owners, and aromatherapy folks that the essential oil of Lavender, Lavandula angustifolia, AKA, Lavendula officinalis, has been identified as an allergen and an increased risk of allergic contact dermatitis. The word from the European Union is that Lavender and several other essential oils appears on the 2023 update of the official EU List of Fragrance Allergens. (See Attachment Below).
The Current list of 25 fragrance ingredients are fragrance chemicals (components of fragrances) that must be declared on cosmetic labels in the EU when their concentration in a product exceeds:
0.001% in leave-on products.
0.01% in rinse-off products.
Note that this EU regulation applies to labeling, not to formulating or usage.
What is an allergen? Also known as a "sensitizer", an allergen is a substance that has the potential to trigger the immune system to marshal an allergic response. An allergen will not trigger reactions in all individuals and it may take many exposures for an allergic response to fully develop. In the case of essential oils, sensitizing substances are the natural chemical components that make up essential oils. Each essential oil has many chemical components in varying amounts depending on the plant source. Lavender oil has 8-12 chemical substances, depending on the type and variety of the plant.
One of the components of Lavender oil, Linalool, appeared on the original EU list. A second component, Linalyl Acetate, has subsequently been identified as causing allergic reactions and now appears on the 2023 amended list (along with many others). Linalyl Acetate and Linalool, are the two largest chemical components of Lavender essential oil, accounting for 50-80% of the common varieties. (Source: Tisserand & Young, Essential Oil Safety.)
A fundamental fact to know is that lavender allergy is most often a delayed-type hypersensitivity. This means that the reaction is not immediate and can take one or two days to show up. It is more likely to happen after increased use and exposure to the linalool and linalyl acetate of lavender. (per Healthline).
Why now? Essential oils have been around forever. Why are we just recently seeing their components identified as allergens? Good question! It has to do with the huge surge in the use of Lavender and other EOs and their components in the personal care, cosmetics, and pet care industries. It takes wide use and exposure over time in order for these fragrance components to emerge as allergens. BTW, synthetic fragrances utilize the chemical components to recreate the smell of the EO or to combine it with other components to make a complex synthetic fragrance.
What does Lavender allergy mean for pet groomers? Okay, just because this allergic reaction is possible does not mean that it is likely. Lavender allergy is relatively rare. The likelihood of it happening increases with:
Concentration - full strength in direct contact with skin raises a much greater risk than highly diluted in a spray product for the coat. Some of the most prevalent cases of Lavender allergy have been connected to use in massage therapy.
Duration of contact - Brief contact in a rinse-off shampoo is much less likely to spark a reaction than contact in a cream that is left on the skin.
Frequency of contact - Lavender allergy has been identified as an occupational hazard. The massage therapist using Lavender in a massage oil several times a day is at greater risk than a person getting a massage with lavender fragrance once in a while.
Sensitivity of the individual - individuals (dogs or humans) who have experienced allergic reactions to other things are more likely to have a reaction to fragrance chemicals. There are people and dogs who have an overactive immune system.
Conclusion: We do not need to ditch our fragrances or essential oils now that we know about fragrance allergy reactions. We need to be mindful that delayed reactions can occur and not be in denial. The fact that a pet leaves our care not showing any signs of itching, rash, hives, etc. does not guarantee that there is not a problem related to our products. And be aware that bathing staff is at the greatest risk of fragrance allergies, especially if they are using the same product repeatedly. The old notion that lavender was a completely benign and harmless “natural” alternative is simply not true. Now you know! Listed below is the complete list of essential oils contained in the draft of the soon-to-be-added fragrance allergens. (2023)
References:
https://www.healthline.com/health/lavender-allergy
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30779160/
https://members.wto.org/crnattachments/2022/TBT/EEC/22_6171_00_e.pdf
https://cosmeservice.com/news/regulation2023-1545-changes-the-allergen-list/
ATTACHMENT - ESSENTIAL OILS IDENTIFIED BY EU AS FRAGRANCE ALLERGENS:
Bay Leaf Oil (Laurus nobilis)
Bergamot Oil (Citrus aurantium bergamia)
Cinnamon Bark Oil (Cinnamomum zeylanicum Bark oil)
Cinnamon Leaf Oil (Cinnamomum cassia Leaf Oil)
Clove Leaf Oil (Eugenia caryophyllus)
Eastern Red Cedar Oil (Juniperus virginiana)
Eucalyptus Globulus Oil
Jasmine Oil (Jasminum officinale grandiflorum)
Lavender Oil (Lavandula hybrida, Lavandula intermedia, Lavandula angustifolia)
Lemon Oil (Citrus limon)
Lemongrass Oil (Cymbopogon citratus / schoenanthus/ flexuosus oils)
Neroli Oil (Citrus aurantium amara and dulcis Flower oil)
Orange Oil (Citrus aurantium amara and dulcis Peel oil)
Patchouli Oil (Pogostemonn cablin)
Peppermint Oil (Mentha Piperita)
Rose Flower Oil (Rosa Alba Flower Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil, Rosa Gallica Flower Oil, Rosa Rugosa Flower Oil.)
Rose Geranium Oil (Pelargonium graveolens)
Rose Otto Oil (Rosa Damascena)
Spearmint Oil (Mentha Spicata)
Sandalwood Oil (Santalum Album)
Ylang Ylang Oil (Cananga Odorata)
Barbara's dematting handout.
TECHNIQUES OF DEMATTING
Matting is the bane of the groomer’s life, whether professional or pet parent. Mats spoil the fun of styling, and dematting is sometimes uncomfortable or even painful for the pet. Matting occurs when knots and tangles bunch together and accumulate. A few hairs in a knot can be called a “tangle”; something the size of your finger, a golf ball or greater is a “mat”. There is often more than just one, and some coats have a tendency to “felt” or mat tightly against the skin. Groomers of rescued pets often see completely felted coats that come off in huge pieces.
Dematting skill is something that is developed with practice over time,
much like scissoring and styling. The following techniques are offered as a means of developing your skill in dematting. The more you utilize these techniques, the greater speed you will develop at achieving your result, with the least possible discomfort to the pet.
DIVIDE AND CONQUER - MAT SPLITTING
Splitting matted fur into smaller pieces is your fundamental key to success. By slicing your matted area lengthwise into smaller pieces, you have a much better chance of untangling the hair. There is also less discomfort to the animal to have small pieces of hair worked on rather than a large mass. One of the best tools for splitting mats is a plastic letter opener style that looks like a business card, with a single “tooth” and a blade in the corner.
Mat splitting requires care and paying attention. Because you need to use a very sharp tool, there is always danger of slicing something besides hair. Watch out for edges of ears, folds of skin, and the tips of tails. Scissors can be used with great caution, ALWAYS working away from the skin. Never cut into mats with scissors pointing inwards to the dog.
Another way of dividing and conquering matting is to shorten the matted coat first. Using your "rough out" shears (an older, less valuable shears) roughly scissor off some of the length. This is especially effective on poodle or poodle mix coats. Oftentimes scissored off mats will brush apart after bathing on these coats. Just try it!
PICK DON'T PULL
Most matted hair will break apart more easily if you use a picking action, rather than trying to pull a comb or rake through a hunk of hair. Correct picking technique is very similar to the technique we use to comb up hair in preparation for scissoring. You are lifting the tool in and out of the hair, not pulling through. Pick from the ends of the hair toward the skin, not from the skin out. Relax your wrist and get a sort of whipping action going. The objective of picking is to loosen the hair. Later you will get more separation with a comb.
FROTHING
The concept of frothing emerged in the moment during the demonstration of
dematting techniques at Atlanta Pet Fair, 2005. I was doing rapid picking action in a matted area on a Cocker Spaniel, using a Mat Breaker tool. As the undone fur rose to the surface, it formed sort of a foam on the top of the coat. "Look!" I exclaimed, "It's FROTHING!" Voila! A concept was born.
Frothing is helpful when you are working on a larger matted area and it is an alternative to picking each little piece apart. Lightly whip in a wider area and then brush out the froth and continue with the comb. Or more frothing...
ATTACK FROM THE SIDE
Once you have an area divided by splitting and loosened by picking, you can finish by combing through. I recommend using a coarse comb and working from one side of an area of matted hair rather than a front and center approach. If possible, hold a piece of hair in one hand and comb with the other. Holding the hair with your fingers between the part being combed and the skin will reduce discomfort to the animal. Release your hold to get the last bit of combing to the skin.
BLOW IT OUT - THE USE OF AIR
Air flow can be used as an aid in untangling hair, either from a high velocity dryer or a traditional stand/arm dryer. The action of the air serves to shake loose some of the hair that is woven together in a tangle. In the case of more coarsely textured hair, much detangling can be done with air flow and splitting of larger areas. On finer coats, the use of air flow from an arm dryer while fluff drying will speed up dematting.
BATHING - THE USE OF WATER
Many groomers were trained with the admonition to never bathe a matted coat. It was cautioned that bathing would cause the matted fur to tighten its grip. This is true if the matted fur is not combed out after the coat is dried. Cleaning and conditioning a matted coat can often help to release the grip of tangles, and some products, such as the silicones mentioned above actually work best when dried into the coat.
Avoid rubbing products into tangled hair, as rubbing can worsen the situation. Squeeze products through the coat and pat dry with towels. On a heavily matted coat, It is recommended that you do some mat splitting before the bath, thus insuring that your bathing will be thorough, products will be distributed, and hair thoroughly saturated. Big clumps can be difficult to penetrate.
TOOLS AND PRODUCTS
Find the tools and products that work best for you. For the purpose of
splitting large matted areas, look for tools that have replacement blades. These tools are only as effective as they are sharp. I use a letter opener splitter from www.groomersmall.com. Another of my favorite dematting tools for large matted areas is the Mat Breaker. It has small, curved blades.
Find out if you prefer the rake style or comb style mat tool.
Look for a wide tooth comb or coarse comb. The Chris Christensen extra coarse-fine comb is great on small dogs such as Bichon, and Shih Tzu. A larger wooden-handled poodle comb is good for larger dogs, such as the Doodles.
Some brushes can be helpful. The Mars Flexy King brush is excellent for breaking up small mats. This imported brush is becoming hard to find. It is at www.groomersmall.com. Extra firm pin brushes are helpful. We’ve used the Chris Christensen 16mm T Brush for years. The Les Pooch “Emergency” brush is extra firm and works for large matted areas.
A pair of blending shears is also helpful for dematting. Blenders have one notched tooth blade and one straight blade. They can be used to break up mats or to cut out stubborn knots with less danger of slicing the dog or leaving a huge hole in the coat.
SLIPPING N' SLIDING
Products which make the hair slippery will ease the detangling efforts.
There are plenty of different products to try. One of the most slippery
products is Cowboy Magic Detangler and Shine. Another silicone gel is
Eqyss Survivor. Remoisturizers and thick conditioners work well if used full
strength directly on the mat. One of my favorites is Chris Christensen Spectrum 10 HyproPac. Less bad mats can be teased apart with aid from diluted spray-in conditioners. Some groomers do much of their dematting in the tub on a wet
pet.
On a dry coat, grooming powders and even corn starch can lubricate the hair shaft for increased ease in tangle removing. Wear a face mask if you choose this
route, so you don’t inhale a lot of powder as you work.
Grooming products with a silicone base, such as Chris Christensen Ice on Ice, The Stuff, Quicker Slicker, AbraCaDaBra and Best Shot coat each hair shaft with slick silicones. Silicone sprays work best when dried on to the coat. It requires a leap of faith to trust that dematting will easier after the coat is bathed and dried. I have also used hair serum products from the human hair aisle that are marketed as “anti-frizz” or “hair glossing”. A good one from Sally Beauty is Fantasia Frizz Buster Serum.